All Cook Should Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.

Jesse Stein
Jesse Stein

Elara is a former odds compiler turned betting analyst, sharing data-driven strategies to help bettors maximize their returns.